Equipment Outfitters

Despite claims to the contrary, fiberglass is not entirely maintenance-free. Although it’s considerably easier to maintain than wood, you still should expect to perform routine tasks to prevent fading and chalking of the outer layer called gelcoat, due to exposure to sun and water. If you do it regularly, you’ll find that it’s much easier than trying to catch up after letting it go too long.

Cleaning the Hull

Regularly washing the boat with fresh water will help keep stains from forming. If the boat is particularly dirty, use a low phosphate liquid detergent, warm water and a soft sponge or cloth. Since mildew grows well in phosphate, be sure to rinse the hull thoroughly after using it.

Cleaning the Deck

Non-slip areas on the deck should be scrubbed with a stiff-bristled brush to lift the dirt out of the pattern. In bad cases, you can use a mild abrasive powder. Do not, however, use the powder on smooth surfaces since it will scratch the finish.

Cleaning Windshields

If your windshield is glass, use a conventional window cleaner. To remove stubborn spots from salt or hard water, use a cloth dipped in vinegar. Plastic windshields and side windows should be cleaned with a plastic cleaner to prevent scratches and hazing. If you do need to remove a scratch, try a commercial scratch remover, or use non-crunchy peanut butter or toothpaste as a mild rubbing compound.

Cleaning Upholstery

There are many vinyl upholstery cleaners available. However, to get mildew out of the creases, mix 1/4 cup of ammonia to 4 cups of water and scrub the crease with a toothbrush or similar brush. Rinse thoroughly afterwards.

Cleaning Fenders

Many solvents, such as acetone, can make a fender or the soft rubrail of a boat sticky, but you can remove dirt and scuffs easily by using a rag soaked in mineral spirits.

Cleaning Iceboxes and Icechests

By the end of boating season iceboxes will sometimes acquire a smell as well as stains from spills. Mix a thick paste of baking soda and water, scour the inside of the box, let it sit for a while, then rinse thoroughly.

The best way to keep your fiberglass boat in like-new condition is to wax it regularly. First, wash it thoroughly and dry it off with a soft rag. Be wary of cleaner/waxes which can scratch the surface and leave a wax residue. Instead, use a hard marine paste wax on the hull and topsides since auto waxes are not intended to fill the porous surfaces found on fiberglass. Renew the wax once (preferably twice) a year.

Waxing the Hull

The easiest way to wax your boat is to rent or buy an electric buffer. Spread the hard paste wax onto the buffer pad with a stick, then apply it, following directions. When it has dried to a haze, put a clean terry cloth pad on the buffer and bring the hull to a shine. Don’t get so far ahead in applying the wax that it becomes hard to remove. If that occurs, apply more wax to soften the earlier coat, then buff it promptly.

Using Rubbing Compound

If your fiberglass has been allowed to weather, it will develop a chalky, dull finish that must be removed with rubbing compound. Start with a mild liquid compound and use a buffer to remove the oxidized surface. Don’t let the buffer remain in one place too long or you’ll remove too much surface. Keep it moving steadily.

Dealing With Decals

Modern powerboats often use decals and other adhesive panels for styling. Be careful not to use abrasives on them. Some waxes can also cause decals to turn yellow. The best protection is a liquid sealant, used before waxing the hull. Any wax that gets on the decal should be wiped off. Be careful not to buff across the edge of decals because this can cause them to lift. If you do have lifting edges, trim them back gently with a razor or use decal adhesive, available at hobby shops, to reattach them.

Bottom Paint

If you leave your boat in the water, you should coat the bottom with anti-fouling paint which has chemicals to keep barnacles and other growth from adhering. Even freshwater lakes and rivers can cause slime growth. Some modern bottom paints may last as long as three seasons but when they lose their effectiveness they must have any growth removed and be repainted. Outboards and sterndrives must be coated with a special non-metallic paint to prevent corrosion.

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