Docking Boat with Wind or Current Parallel to Pier

Whenever possible, head into the wind or current. It will help slow your boat down. Match your speed to nature’s forces so your boat stops at the place you want to tie up. Angle the boat in toward the pier gently, being careful not to let the current or wind push you in too fast. As soon as the bow is close to the dock, attach the bow line and let the wind or current push the stern in against the pier.

Docking Boat with Wind or Current Toward Pier

Stop the boat parallel to the position you want on the pier and let the wind or current push you sideways into place. Remember, however, to use fenders because the boat will be continually forced against the pier by the elements.

Docking With Wind Away From Dock

With the wind pushing you away from the dock, you must use the throttle and shift to keep the boat near the dock. Secure the bow line to the dock first and then turn the wheel toward the dock. By using reverse, you can pull the stern into the dock easily to secure the stern line.

Tying Up Your Boat for Overnight

With the boat tied up at a pier or slip, the crew can leave the vessel overnight or sleep aboard it without worry. When tying up, its best not to create a spider web of lines. Instead, use a few critical dock lines that protect the boat against shifts of wind or current, or even the occasional midnight squall. The use of fenders is a must in most situations. Also keep in mind a rise and fall in the water level if relevant.

Tying Boat Overnighting at a Pier

Try to choose the side of the pier that will offer the greatest protection from wind and current, and ask other skippers what effect a shift during the night has on boats. Four dock lines are enough for most small powerboats: a bow line, a stern line (from the outside corner), two spring lines: one from the inside stern to a cleat on the pier near the middle of the boat; the other from the bow cleat to the same cleat near the middle of the boat. The spring lines serve to keep the boat from moving forward or backward, as well as holding the flat side of the hull where the fenders can protect it. It is also correct to run spring lines from a middle cleat on the boat forward and aft to the dock.

Tying Boat Overnighting in a Slip

A bow and stern line to each side of the slip will hold the boat away from the piers. Spring lines, docking lines that run at an acute angle from the dock to the boat, help keep the boat from moving back and forth if you plan to stay aboard.

At the Pier

With an outboard, disconnect the fuel line and let the engine idle until it runs out of fuel. This prevents the formation of deposits in the engine.

Outboards and sterndrives should be tilted to the up position to simplify loading the boat onto the trailer.

Retrieving the Boat at the Ramp

Before backing the trailer, hook the winch cable to the back of the trailer so it can be reached easily from the boat and hauled to the bow eye.

Back the trailer squarely into the water so that the boat is aligned on the rollers and pads. If the trailer is angled, the boat will not rest on it properly. Chock the car’s tires and put the transmission in park.

Hook the winch cable to the bow eye and guide the bow of the boat to the first roller or trailer pad. (When using an electric winch and wire cable, wear gloves for protection and operate the winch by remote control. Do not stand near it, since a broken cable can whiplash dangerously.)

Keep the boat centered and aligned, and don’t be embarrassed to start over if it isn’t lined up correctly. Once the boat is completely on the trailer, put the car in low gear and pull the trailer slowly up the ramp.

Re-install the stern tie-down straps or lines, fit the sterndrive support bar in place and hook-up the trailer lights.

Before leaving the ramp area, check the boat to make sure that nothing can blow out, that the canvas top is secured, and that all loose objects are stowed away.

Regardless of the method you use to haul out, don’t rush away from the ramp or hoist area until you are sure that everything is ready for trailering. You can usually move the boat at low speed without tying it down, but the bow and stern tie-down straps should be in place before you reach the highway. Also check the trailer lights and secure all loose items inside the boat or stow them in the car trunk.

Retrieving the Boat by Sling

Since wet boats are slippery, you may want to tie the slings together for security before lifting the boat out of the water. While positioning the slings, keep your hands away from the boat so they won’t be caught when the slings tighten.

Use the bow and stern lines to position the boat properly over the trailer. Under no circumstances should you walk under the boat.

If the boat doesn’t settle properly on the trailer, ask the sling operator to lift the boat slightly and re-position it. Don’t attempt to move the boat on the trailer without lifting it beforehand.

Pre-trailering Checklist

• Remove or stow loose items that might blow out of the boat.
• Make sure that objects such as anchors and batteries are secure and don’t slide around.
• Tie canvas tops or covers firmly to keep them from ripping in the wind.
• Make sure that all tie-downs are fastened securely.
• Check trailer tail lights, stop lights and turn signals.
• Make sure the hitch is seated and locked, and that the safety chain is crossed under the trailer tongue.
• Check trailer tire pressure.

Tips for Backing

Back the car slowly. Very little steering wheel movement will put the trailer where you want it. Oversteering can put you into a jackknife. If the trailer gets too far out of line, simply pull forward to straighten it out and start over.

One way to remember which way the trailer will go is to hold the steering wheel at the bottom. If you move your hand to the right (turning the wheel counterclockwise), the back of the trailer will move to the right. If you move your hand left (clockwise), the trailer will move left.

Tips for Towing

Since a car with a trailer is slower to accelerate, leave extra room when pulling into traffic or passing other cars. Because of the weight it will also take longer to stop, so anticipate braking situations. Quick starts and stops are hard on the tow car, and sudden turns may cause the trailer to weave from side to side.

Make wide turns. A trailer needs a wider arc to go around street corners than a car. If you cut a turn too tightly you’ll find the trailer bumping over the curb. Trailers are also vulnerable to crosswinds or drafts from passing trucks, which can cause the rig to sway. If the swaying is alarming, don’t brake. Braking can increase the whipping. Ease your foot off the accelerator and let the car slow down naturally to a comfortable speed. The swaying will stop.

On long trips stop regularly to double-check the tie-downs, the boat and the trailer.

Trailering Drills

As you practice backing up with your trailer, don’t think that you can only use reverse. Professional truck drivers, faced with much longer trailers than boatowners, often drive forward slightly to straighten out a trailer that wants to jackknife to one side. Driving a few feet forward can quickly put you back in control of the rig. To prevent loss of control in reverse, go slowly and don’t oversteer.

Cornering

Choose an empty parking lot and use a number of large, empty cardboard boxes as markers.

First, construct a “corner” out of the boxes. Make right and left hand turns around it to learn the turning radius of your trailer. This will help prevent you from making mistakes on real street corners.

Backing

Next, create a “parking slot” by lining up boxes in two rows, about five feet from each side of the trailer. Drive straight ahead for 50 feet and stop. Then practice backing up into the parking place between boxes. This gives you a feel for how little movement is needed to steer the trailer. To gain confidence try this at increasing distances of 100, 200 and 300 feet. This will enable you to back up straight down the launching ramp.

Having a crew member to guide you on the launching ramp can be a great help, particularly if your boat obstructs your rear view. A crew member’s simple hand signals, such as a clenched fist to stop or a finger pointing in the direction the trailer should go in, can take the strain out of launching. And, once on the ramp itself, it is helpful to have a crew member signal when you’ve backed down far enough to launch.

Parking

The final drill will be to back the trailer into the space between the boxes as though you were backing around a corner. Drive the car and trailer at right angles to the boxes, about 40 to 50 feet away from the boxes and to the left of them. By turning the wheel clockwise, you will start the trailer turning toward the parking place. Once you’ve started the turn, straighten the wheel and the trailer will gracefully arc between the boxes. You’ll need practice to determine how far away to stop the trailer and how much to turn the wheel, but you’ll become comfortable with the maneuver.

As a final test, you might want to try backing the trailer from the right of the parking place. This is more difficult because you can’t see as well. You may want a crew member to help guide you.

Just as pilots practice “touch and go” landings to hone their skills, the powerboat skipper should perfect his docking technique practicing with the same method. This is best done at a deserted pier so that you won’t get in anyone’s way (or be embarrassed by your own early efforts). After a few passes at the pier, you’ll soon be confident that you can handle your boat properly in most docking circumstances.

Preparation: The intent is to be skillful enough to bring your boat alongside the dock without relying on the dock lines to pull you into position. Start your practice session early in the day when wind and water are calmest. Hang fenders over the side you plan to dock on.

Drill: Locate a spot on the pier as your eventual destination. Approach the pier at about a 20° angle. Use steering and reverse to align the boat at the pier. As soon as the boat has stopped in the position you desire, move the boat away from the dock and start again. Try approaching port and starboard sides to acquaint yourself with your boat’s handling characteristics in close quarters.

Drill: To practice an approach to a crowded dock, tie broomsticks to the dock, extending out over the water, to mark the space between other “boats.” Try several approaches, making sure that you stay within the space you have allotted yourself without touching the neighboring “boats.”

Boat Drilling Picking Up a Mooring

Although most boat handling skills are used while actually docking, the popularity of moorings in many areas will require you to develop techniques for picking up a mooring float. This procedure is similar in many ways to retrieving a floating object. A little practice with an actual mooring in an isolated area will insure that you know all the steps when you need them in a crowded anchorage.

Preparation: Find an unused mooring buoy. A navigational buoy is not a good substitute. Most moorings have either a ring or a shackle attached to the floating buoy. You’ll need a bow line to thread through that eye. Some moorings may already have a line attached so be careful not to tangle your prop as you approach.

Drill: The safest and most controlled approach to a buoy is from the downwind side. Before beginning your approach, locate the wind direction by looking for flags or smoke in the area. Other boats will be downwind of their moorings.

Have the boathook and bow line ready, with someone on the bow to handle the actual tie-up. At idle speed, approach the buoy and, when it is out of sight under the bow, have your crew tell you where it is located. If necessary, the crew can use the boathook to snag the buoy and pull it in. As soon as that’s done, put the engine in neutral so as not to run over it. Pass the bow line through the buoy eye and fasten the end to your bow cleat.

If you are alone, you may want to secure the bow line and bring the tail back near the steering wheel. You can then bring the boat alongside the mooring buoy and thread the line from the cockpit.

To depart from a mooring, start your engine, release the end of the bow line and pull it through the buoy eye. Back away from the buoy.

It may have been surprising to learn that your boat turns more efficiently in one direction than the other. You will also find that higher speeds produce different turning results. In general, the faster you go, the larger the turning circle. Unlike your car, which has good adhesion, your boat will slip sideways as it turns. At a dead stop, with the rudder hard over, a short burst of throttle will kick the stern to the side.

Preparation: The same as for Drill 1. Since this drill involves higher speeds, check to be sure that the area is clear of swimmers and other boats.

Drill: Execute a turn around the buoy at a speed 500 rpm over the idle speed. On each successive circle, increase speed by 500 rpm until you reach medium throttle. Be prepared to cross your own wake as you begin each new circle.

Conclusions: You will find that an increase in speed also increases the radius of your turn. If you have twin engines, the results of Drill 2 will be the same. In Drill 1, however, you will find your boat makes circles of equal radius in both directions. A word of caution: Sharp, high speed turns can be dangerous, so either throttle down before making a turn or make wider, more gentle turns at speed.

Boat Drilling Backing

You’ve already discovered that propeller rotation affects your boat’s turning radius in one direction more than the other. You’ll discover through this drill that your boat’s backing characteristics are also affected by the propeller’s rotation. In general, the common right-handed propeller will make your stern move to the left as you back up. This will be true regardless of engine system.

Preparation: A buoy in open water can be used for the first drill, but a more ideal situation would be to find a pier in deep water to serve as a “straight line” for the backing practice outlined in the second drill.

Drill: In open water, duplicate the turnir.g radius tests in reverse and at low speed. You will find that your powerboat will turn much more quickly in one direction. Note this fact for future maneuvers.

Drill: With the boat parallel to the pier and at a distance of at least two boat lengths from it, put the engine in reverse at idle speed. Start with the drive unit or rudder centered, as though you were proceeding straight ahead. Without turning the wheel, note that the stern will swing in one direction, usually to the left. Try the same drill at a slightly higher engine speed, and note that this increases the tendency of the stern to back to one side.

Stop, realign your boat and again put it in reverse at idle speed. This time, turn the wheel so that the boat backs up in a straight line, and note the amount of turn that is required to compensate for the natural tendency to turn left in reverse.

Boat Drilling Retrieving Objects

A basic maneuver for small powerboats is to return to a previous spot in order to retrieve something from the water. This can be as common an occurrence as picking up a waterskier or retrieving a hat that blew off. It can also be as crucial as recovering someone who fell overboard accidentally. These are simple maneuvers. Nevertheless, the precision with which they are executed is the result of practice.

Preparation: For your in-water object, use a floating life preserver or a boat fender without a line tied to it so that it won’t snag your propeller. Practice this drill in an open water area with calm winds so that the floating object won’t blow away.

Drill: Toss the cushion overboard. As soon as it hits the water, turn the boat toward the cushion. This will turn the stern away from the cushion, thus protecting it from the propeller. If there is a wind, maneuver to the cushion from downwind. This keeps the boat from being blown down on the object when you stop your engine to retrieve it. If possible, retrieve the cushion on the side nearest the skipper for best visibility.

Retrieving a Person in the Water: You may want to use a thrown line to pull them toward the boat instead of maneuvering close by and thereby risking collision. In either case, be sure that your engine is in neutral or stopped as you near the person so that the propeller is not a threat.

Practice this drill in different wind and wave conditions to determine how your boat is affected in each situation.

One of the most important elements in operating your boat in a seamanlike manner is the proper use of throttle and shift control. There is seldom any need for heavy use of throttle and shift during maneuvers such as docking. A light touch and smaller amounts of each achieve the same results with less fuss and noise. It goes without saying that bumping into things at slow speed causes less damage.

Preparation: Familiarize yourself with the throttle- shift movements with the engine off. Also examine your engine or boat manual for tips on using the throttle and shift aboard your boat. Many small powerboats combine gearshift and throttle into a single-lever control. To prevent accidentally selecting reverse, a button in the shifter may need to be pushed before reverse can be used.

Drill: With the engine running in neutral, push the shift lever forward until you are in forward. Make a note of how far you have to move the lever. Do the same for reverse. These will give you the minimum of power in each gear, which will be used for docking and low-speed maneuvering.

In forward gear, advance the throttle slightly, and see how much speed you have gained. Continue testing up to full speed. Repeat the same procedure for reverse gear and, again, note how much throttle is needed for each amount of reverse thrust. Be careful not to swamp the cockpit.

Using a buoy in open water as a starting point, practice going backwards and forwards so that you can operate the throttle without looking. In many situations, you’ll want to rely on the “feel” of the throttle because you’ll need to be watching somewhere else.

Boat Drilling Stopping Distance

Just as important as being able to throttle and shift without looking is becoming aware of the distance needed to come to a full stop. On land, the brakes on a car are highly efficient. On the water, with a little practice, you’ll learn to stop very quickly with good control by putting your boat in reverse. At slow speeds, you can count on water friction, current and/or wind to slow you down or stop you.

Preparation: Using the same buoy as before, you will be learning how much distance is required to stop your boat at different speeds.

Drill: At idle speed, steer the boat in a straight line past the buoy. As soon as the stern passes the buoy, put the engine in neutral, then reverse at idle speed. By watching the water nearby, you can judge when the forward motion of the boat has stopped. At that point, put the engine in neutral and check the stopping distance. Make another pass at idle speed but use more throttle in reverse; again note the distance required to stop. Try the same drill at a variety of throttle settings.

Full-power reverse is used mainly in emergencies only since it strains the boat, engine and crew.

Conclusions: At low speeds, very little throttle in reverse is needed to stop your boat, so there is no need to race your engine while docking. As your speeds increase, more power is needed to stop the boat quickly. Note that the more reverse is used, the less control you have over the boat.

Boat Drilling Turning

Turning drills are one of the best ways to learn how to handle a new powerboat properly, whether you’re a novice or a seasoned seaman. When you buy a new car, it takes time to learn how tightly it will turn and how quickly it will accelerate or stop. The drills on these pages will help you understand your boat’s characteristics and illustrate the differences in its turning radius between right and left turns.

Preparation: Find a floating marker or buoy in an area of smooth water where you can maneuver freely at low and medium speeds without getting in the way of other boats. Using the buoy as a starting point, you’ll see how your boat turns in each direction.

Drill: At idle speed, pass close with the buoy on your right side. As soon as your stern clears the buoy (and without changing the throttle), turn the boat hard to the right. As you complete the circle, notice your turning radius. Repeat the drill by turning to your left side.

Conclusions: Most single-engined powerboats have “right-handed” propellers, that is propellers that turn clockwise. Boats thus powered will turn more quickly to the right than to the left. Outboards and sterndrives will have even smaller turning circles than inboards because the thrust of the propeller is actually turned rather than simply deflecting water past a rudder. By looking at the path of your wake, you will notice that you have not made a perfect circle. This is due, in part, to the fact that there is a delay between throwing the wheel over and the boat’s response to the new rudder angle.

Americans enjoy waterskiing each year, making it one of the most popular waterborne sports. But there’s more to it than just having a boat and finding a deserted body of water. For maximum pleasure and safety the boat should be properly outfitted and the skipper must understand what skills are required. An observer facing aft, toward the skier, must be as involved as the skipper.

Equipping the Waterski Boat

The waterski boat should have a sturdy method of attaching the waterski tow rope. For most boats, this is a bridle attached to two towing eyes on the stern. A rearview mirror can help the driver, and a boarding ladder makes it easier to retrieve the skier. The standard tow line is a 75-foot polypropylene line that floats, with a padded and floating handle. All skiers should wear a flotation device such as the lightweight waterski PFD.

Driving the Waterski Boat

Pick a course in smooth water that is clear of other boats, swimmers and other skiers. If other skiers are in the area, avoid following them in case they fall. Unless the skier is experienced, advise him to stay in the wake of the boat.

Water Starts

With the skier well away from the boat the observer throws him or her the tow line. After double- checking to make sure that the skier is safely away from the boat and that the ski line is clear of the propeller, move the boat ahead at idle speed to take up the slack. When the skier is ready and shouts “In gear!” idle forward to take up the remaining slack. At the skier’s shout “Hit it!” the boat should accelerate smoothly up to a speed suitable for the skier’s experience level.

In addition to equipping the boat properly, both the driver and the observer should be familiar with the universal waterski hand signals used by the skier to communicate. Equally important is knowing how to retrieve a waterskier from the water quickly or getting the tow line back to a downed waterskier before he or she tires. The observer should watch the waterskier at all times. The driver should look ahead.

Returning the Tow Line

When a waterskier falls, return immediately to the skier’s area. Hold one arm up to warn other boats that there is a skier in the water. Make a circle that sharpens after passing the skier. This will drag the tow line past the skier who can grab it and slide back to the end before starting the ski sequence. This should be done at slow speed.

Retrieving the Skier

After circling back and pulling in the tow line, make a slow approach from downwind at idle speed, keeping the skier in sight on the driver’s side of the boat. As the boat nears the skier, shift into neutral or turn the engine off while the observer puts the boarding ladder over the side and helps the skier into the boat.

Having marked the courses between buoys, the “legs” of your intended trip, you will want to measure them. And, having measured them and added them up for total mileage, you will want to figure out how long it will take to make the trip. Since distance divided by speed equals time, you will first have to learn how to tell boat speed. If you know your speed and distance on a leg, you can compute time in hours.

Course

Examine the chart to determine the best way to get from your departure point to your destination. You may be able to go straight between the two. More likely, however, the trip will require several doglegs to avoid shallow area and hazards.

Using a pencil and parallel rules, draw straight lines between the navigational aids you plan to use along the way.

Distance

At the top of the chart is a scale in nautical miles. Using the dividers, determine the distance of each leg. Write the distance for each leg beneath the course marked on the line, followed by the letters “nm” (short for nautical miles).

Speed

A tachometer can be used to determine a vessel’s speed through the water. Thus, at any given engine rpm, the skipper knows what speed the boat is making.

To come up with a speed table, choose a mile-long course between two known navigational aids. Run the course each way at a given throttle setting, then do it again and again at increasingly higher settings. Average the time it takes to cover the distance at each setting, convert the average into seconds and divide the seconds into 3,600 (seconds in an hour) to get speed. If the measured mile is a statute (land) mile, speed will be in mph. If the measured mile is a nautical mile, speed will be in knots.

There are various ways to determine boat speed. Some vessels have speedometers. Larger ones are equipped with navigational devices, such as loran, which compute speed electronically. Smaller boats can calculate velocity by timing their running time on a measured mile at different engine rpm. To minimize the effects of wind and tide, timed runs should be made in each direction at a given rpm.

Dead Reckoning

On long legs between known navigational aids it is difficult to know your exact location at all times. However, by keeping track of your compass course, time and speed on each leg, you can “reckon” where you are at any given moment. Constantly updating your estimated position isn’t as necessary in familiar waters as in unfamiliar ones. But knowing where you should be is critical in any emergency.

Waypoint

Dead reckoning involves recordkeeping. Each time you pass a waypoint, for example, you should pencil in the time next to it on the chart. If you know your compass course and speed from that point, you can determine your location at any given time along the leg that you are traveling by multiplying your speed by the time that has elapsed since you passed the last waypoint divided by 60 when dealing in minutes. You should also be able to predict your arrival time at the next waypoint.

Checkpoints

Dead reckoning information should be updated as frequently as possible.

To check your progress on a two-and-a-half-mile leg (the long one on the chart at right), you should note the time you came abreast of Long Neck Point.

On a long leg of a journey, tides and currents, even wind, may push you off course, slow you down or speed you on your way. The longer the leg, the greater the possibility of deflection. One way to correct and update your dead reckoning is to use waypoints along the way to check your progress on each leg. Look for conspicuous landmarks along the shoreline, nearby headlands and well-defined land contours.

Tools

Compass: The most basic and useful navigation aid available, the compass houses a card that is magnetically oriented towards north, regardless of your boat’s direction. The card reads in degrees. Your boat’s heading is indicated by a “lubber’s line,” a pin or stripe lined up on the clear dome. A professional should adjust the compass to compensate for the magnetic field set up by your boat.

Parallel Rules: This handy device allows you to draw a course between two points, then “walk” the course over to a compass rose to determine the magnetic direction in which to steer.

Compass Rose: Taking its name from the flower it resembles, a compass rose on a chart shows two sets of bearings: the outer ring is oriented to true north, while the inner one shows magnetic bearings oriented to the magnetic north pole. Since your compass is magnetically oriented, use the rose’s inner (magnetic) bearings for navigational purposes.

A course on the water., much like a road on land, may not provide the straightest line to your destination. It will, however, take you around or away from shallow areas, land masses, rocks, sunken wrecks and other underwater obstructions. Calculating your route through inland waters and along coastlines also provides a way by which you can recheck and update your current position along the way.

Dividers: Hinged to open or contract, dividers are used to measure distances on charts. Normally, navigational distances are measured in nautical miles (approximately one-seventh longer than statute miles). Speed, in nautical miles per hour, is expressed as knots (not knots per hour).

Planning and Steering a course

1. Beginning with your starting point, pick your first intended waypoint on the chart.
2. Using the parallel rules and a sharpened pencil, draw a line between the two points.
3. “Walk” the rules over to the center of t h e compass rose. Do this by holding one rule down firmly while opening the other in the direction of the compass. Then reverse the procedure until one rule bisects the cross lines at the center of the compass.
4. Note where the rule intersects the inner (magnetic) circle in the direction you wish to go. In this case, the indicated course will be 147°.
5. Mark the course on the original line you drew.
6. Precede the bearing with the letter “C” (for course) and follow it with the “M” (for magnetic).
7. Align the lubber’s line on your boat’s compass on 147 and try to steer that course.

Types of Anchors

The most common anchor among small powerboats is the Danforth, or “lightweight” type, since it stores easily and holds well in mud and sand. It is less effective on rocky or grassy bottoms. The folding anchor is good in mud or rock but less effective in sand. Choose an anchor for the bottom conditions in your intended anchorage.

Anchor Rode

The anchor line, or rode, should be a 3/8-inch twisted nylon rode for powerboats up to 24 feet. A length of 3/16-inch galvanized chain, at least 10 feet long, will help the anchor lie flat and hold. Scope is the ratio of anchor line laid out to water depth. For a short stay, 4:1 is an acceptable scope. Any longer or in a blow, use 8:1 or more.

Where to Anchor

Check your chart for water depth and bottom type before selecting your anchorage. If there are other boats at anchor, determine whether they are using a single anchor or are anchored at both bow and stern. If they are using only a single anchor, select a spot that will allow you to swing around in the wind or current without hitting other boats.

Since there is seldom any need to rush through the process, use the same slow, cautious approach to anchoring that you use when docking. After selecting the spot where you want the boat to rest, free the anchor, its chain and rode. Check the shackles to be sure they’re snug and make sure that the rode is untangled as you enter the anchorage. Last, make certain that the anchor line end is tied to the boat.

Single Anchor: If possible, use an upwind approach to the area where you want to anchor. Bring the boat to a complete stop and signal to your crew to lower the anchor. Don’t throw the anchor over. Lower it gently. When it reaches the bottom the line will go slack. Put the engine in reverse and slowly let out rode. When you have let out the scope you want, secure the anchor line to the bow cleat. Back up slowly under power to help the anchor dig firmly into the bottom. After shifting into neutral, pull on the anchor line. If you feel grating or snatching, the anchor is skimming over the bottom. When the pull is firm and uniform, the anchor is holding.

Weighing Anchor: When you are ready to leave, reverse your anchoring procedure. Power forward while your crew pulls in the anchor rode until the line is vertical. With the engine in neutral, pull up the remaining rode, chain and anchor. Caution: Avoid leaning over to pull up the remaining load. The strain on your back can be enormous. Instead, kneel on deck or squat.

Stuck Anchor: If you can’t get the anchor free, secure the rode to the bow cleat and motor slowly ahead. This will pull the anchor rode in the opposite direction of the anchor’s set.